So my last stop in America was supposed to be LA. I was
spending the most amount of time here because I wanted to just sit back and
relax here. And as you will read and laugh about each and every interaction you
will realise, I should have never done LA.
So the first night I landed in LA and took the cab for
Hollywood and Vine; yup, that's where I had got myself a gorgeous loft and
could not be happier living ON the Hollywood Boulevard. As I entered the city I
had already seen cops arrest some African American but the cab was moving too
fast for me to capture the moment as a tourist. This was the first time I was
seeing an arrest with the guy's head put on the trunk of the car and the cops
handcuffing him. To be honest, it was more scary than exciting, but we quickly
moved past it and I entered the heavenly zones of the Sunset Boulevard and
Hollywood Boulevard. And the roads lit up with lights and colour and all the
familiar names of to-dos and to-sees. From the bus tours to the big flashy
theatres, a million souvenir shops, the comedy club pubs everything was there.
And I was living right here... You can't imagine my excitement! As in my head I
thought.. no more busses and trains, I'll just walk everywhere.. I'm living on the Hollywood Boulevard in LA!!! This was where all the action was!!
My landlord was a no show for the first night, which was
very uncomfortable cause he had left his entire house open... like all doors
and drawers open and I was there.. a person he just did not know. Did he not
consider I could have been a wierdo, oh wait... what if he was?? What if there
were cameras all over?? I checked every mirror, every corner before I changed I
promise, place looked clean and yet I
did all the changing girls hostel style... well which means the girls always
have something on and we struggle our way through clothes and exchange them
rather than change... ask the women.... we all can do it :) I'd rather always
be safe than sorry I say :)
The Hard Rock Cafe! |
It was about dinner time so I thought I'll take a stroll
along the Boulevard and pick up pamphlets to plan my next day and grab a meal
and souvenir at the Hard Rock Cafe. So; dressed up pretty and walked along
picking up brochures and making mental plans. Most friends often ask me, don't
I get bored alone... And the truth is.. well cause you are responsible for your
own fun you are mostly really really busy planning it and then living it... its
only at restaurants that you could imagine being awkward but if you are a
single woman travelling; people are generally really nice to you, like the
gorgeous waitress who served me at the Hard Rock. She was a professional dancer
struggling in LA and played my body guard against all the men who were
trying to ask about me. When a man walked up to me to hold a conversation, she
was there in moments to rescue me and tell the man I was not to be disturbed
very assertively. She was fierce!
The reality of LA did not hit me till I was walking back
home. It was barely about 10:30 pm and it was a 20 minute walk, when suddenly
an old man started calling out to me, he was a homeless man and kept calling me
by some name and walking hurriedly towards me, I started walking faster and so
did he... before I knew it I was so scared I started running and entered the
first restaurant I could see. My friend had long ago told me, if someone starts
to follow you always head for a hotel or restaurant.. Good advice! I entered
the restaurant with a dash as the hostess walked towards me awkwardly saying
her repetitive line "Table For...." and I think I held her panting
and saying.. "A man.. A man is following me... I didn't know where to go..
Can I wait here for a bit?" Both she and the manager waited with me as
they handed me water to help me calm down and watched the crazy man disappear. I
had no idea what had just happened? Was I just 'harassed' by a homeless guy in
'America' on the 'Hollywood Boulevard' of LA???? And just then before I could
even compose myself and walk without trembling I was passing a club of sorts
and few more 'over friendlies' started 'complimenting' me and hooting and..
and.. as they got closer.. I screamed back at them "Please leave me alone
or I'll start crying" ... and ran away... Wait... What... What did F%*@
did I just say??? "I'll start crying?????????????" That was my
threat????? What the hell was wrong with me??? Who says that???
The strip club from my balcony! |
As I dragged my tired feet home; I was almost banging the
door of the apartment building and begging the lady at the reception to let me
in.. and the moment she let me in I broke down and cried like a baby holding
her... I had not had such experiences ever.... even as I had walked around
prepared in India; but was so unprepared for this to happen to me in America..
Where was I?? As I sobbed and told my story to the lady she totally knew what I
was talking about... and said "Ya... Ummmm.. These homeless people have
killed LA, we call them 'bums' and they are all over.. honey you need to keep
some pepper spray with you at all times and next time just don't even think...
spray anyone who even gets close."
As I entered the empty new house I was so shaken up that I
slept with every door double locked and fighting memories of movies wandering
my head.. with the cop car sirens and loud noise coming from the street below,
I slept with earphones in my ears that night hoping the next day came with a
promise to be bright.
As the alarm rang at 7 30, I stepped into the living area
and fixed myself a coffee with some good music on my ipod and as I stepped out
in the balcony through a window to feel the sun on my face I was rudely
SHOCKED!! My apartment was opposite a strip club which had a huge board outside
it with 'fully naked girls here' written in every possible language.. yup..
even Hindi. Amused and embarrassed took a sip of my coffee to realise the milk
had gone bad and being in the balcony I had no place to even spit quickly... I
was beginning to pray for a better day now.
Santa Monica- And the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co at the back! |
Positive me got dressed... picked up a coffee from the
Starbucks en-route and made my way to take the bus tours. Met some smiling
faces, took pictures, made some old couple friends and the day was gloriously
beautiful and as we drove around in the open top bus... I waited.. I waited...
I waited to be awestruck... to look at some place.. any place and be like..
"WOW". It... it didn't happen. Saw and stopped at many places.. made
a long stop at the Santa Monica Pier too.. but I gotta be honest.. I wasn't
dazzled at all. So here is what I think.. unless you are seriously "Star
Struck" or something LA is not the place for you.. I mean the pier had Bubba
named shrimp shops all over ;being influenced by Forrest Gump.. and oh so did
the broad walk in San Francisco, I mean it was a movie for god's sake... we
haven't named places where Bollywood movies were shot with the names of
characters.. Imagine going to a hill station with all shops and restaurants
named Raj or something. I do love the movie.. I loved Forrest Gump and know it
by the dialogue but really the only thing people said about Santa Monica to me
was.. This is where Forrest ran till and stopped running... ummmm LAME is what
I thought.. just me! Yes it was pretty and everything but I really had seen
better beaches and crowds.
Anyway.... went on to the most popular Venice Beach from there.. Now
this was interesting with basketball courts right next to the beach and a flea
market all along the coast with street performers and open restaurants... I
walked along the beach for a bit.. posed as a life-guard and walked back to a
restaurant.. had a good meal.. picked up some cool shades for like $7 and used
a loo with no lights and totally UVed.
There were 2 highlights of my trip to LA, the movie show at
the El Capitan where they performed a magic show before they played Maleficent and
the only other highlight was Deepali Khanna. She is my elder brother's friend and
even though we had never met she was most helpful and warm with every single
suggestion she made. Told me exactly what to do and where to go and every piece
of advice was perfect including taking the tour buses.
Venice Beach and the $7 sunglasses! :) |
Unlike most of USA; LA is not the most well connected city
in terms of local transport and the only way to really enjoy it is to have a
car of your own really. It's very spread out with little or no connectivity.
Had dinner at my landlord's restaurant Wood and Vine, a beautiful, quaint
restaurant with lovely service and great cocktails. Uday, my landlord was born
and brought up in LA and was a complete gentlemen and ran the restaurant with
all his heart.
All LA had to offer in terms of sightseeing was where who
lived and died.. the celebrities.. and that was so totally not quenching my
thirst. So the next day I decided to visit the 'hot-spots' of LA; desperately
hoping to be impressed. So I went to the Melrose Avenue, to check out shops
where a pair of sunglasses was for $800 and ate at 'The Ivy Restaurant'. Now to
be honest I was hoping that the food and drinks here were going to be out of
this world, cause this was a celebrity hang out... but nope.. infact the salad
was almost limp and I could barely finish it. The most incredible thing about
it.. was the look and feel of the place, I felt I was in Spain with all the
flowers and plants around me, the closely laid tables, it was pretty intimate
yet private. Now being a solo traveller; I've always requested random strangers
to take pictures for me, but the waiters here were more busy standing and
waiting and looking around but could not take a minute to take a picture of me.
They simply asked me to wait and then forgot. Oh! Another example of their
hospitality..?? There was a beautiful bunch of flowers on the table and I
requested if I could take just one flower and I was refused.. curtly.. very
curtly.
Then walked to the Urth Cafe, also another hotspot, but
again the bobba/bubble tea in Australia was way better than what they offered.
As I then walked towards the city centre for some shopping the strangest thing
happened, an old woman, well dressed walked dead on towards me and said,
"Your life is about to change, a big change is coming your way" I
must admit I was startled but I knew better by now and I decided to play along
and said "Really? How so?" and she said "You will find what you
are looking for"
"Be specific, please", and there it was... she
says "Keep $20 in my palm and I'll tell you all about it... I simply
walked away laughing... and went up to Blooming Dales only to run into her
again in the make-up section where she tried all the expensive make up as my
sales boy hid me from her... It was hilarious! Bums!!?? LA was full of
crazies!!
My last night in LA, I was meeting an old friend... and this
turned out to be an absolute night to remember! He had been living there for
decades and was in love with LA... no no.. not like you and me love a city or
our country he was obsessed with it! And had made it his responsibility to make
everyone know it and love it too; so when he asked me how I loved LA.. I being the
'compulsive truther' said "It's alright! I dig history and culture and LA
doesn't have much of that... It may be great for party people but I'm not big
on that" Oh... My... God!! The rest of the evening he kept telling me how
awesome it was here and kept making gestures to 'high-five' him every time he
said... 'This is ELLL AAA man' like really every few minutes he would say
something and expect me to do it too... 'This is ELLL AAA man'.... I said I
was harassed by bums.. and he said see.. "The weather here is so awesome
even the homeless love it here... 'This is ELLL AAA man' (high five)" . He
raved about how well he was doing and seeing a British girl, and when I asked
him her name.. It was an Indian name and with the confused look on my face he
figured he had to explain..and said ya she is 'Gujju' but born in UK you
know.... I swear if you in my head that evening you would do one of two
things... hold your head in your hands or just be gaping rudely... After raving
for 15 minutes on how well he was doing he almost stupidly looked at me and said "Hope you are getting the next round.." I had had enough by then and
blurted out... "Honey, if I can travel the world and live in fancy hotels
and apartments, I sure can buy you a drink, in-fact why don't you sit pretty,
I'll take the tab" and he went on to explain, "You know this is how
we work in US man.. everyone splits... It's not like India.." It was my
turn now... I had heard so much of his pseudo non-sense that talking about
India like he knew it when he had no clue.. was the last straw! I don't get
it.. Why do all these people who had recently (ya even 10-15 years is recent)
moved to US become such wannabes and desperate to blend in with the locals that
they would follow everything without using any rationale... So desperate to
become a 'New Yorker' or from LA!!?? Yes, here in India also, when I meet the
friends I regularly hang out with.. we all split the bill but when we meet
someone who is meeting us after decades in our town its almost nice and
hospitable to take the tab.. Even my British friends do that! Infact when they
met me after only 6 months they even got gifts for me (Thanks Victoria!) Anyone
who can travel abroad for a vacation can sure buy stuff for themselves, it's
not like I needed him to buy it but the audacity to demand it and assume I'm
from some backward village who doesn't understand how the cool world of
equality works was simply pushing it..
He did take me to a few cool places, and split after he got
the message that this wasn't fun at the Chateau Marmont. Met a funny bouncer
there and I was so full of negativity by the time he left that when the bouncer
looked at me and asked.. bad night... I just rattled away about his stupid
'high-fiving' and he said the funniest thing.. said.. "Oh! Oh ya, I do
that too all the time.. especially after sex.. you know like this was good..
and we like high-five" I laughed out loud... and said.. "That's a
mental picture I won't forget man" and I haven't...!
Next day I was leaving for home, and I'd had a million
awesome moments in my time in US and even though LA wasn't even close to the
human interactions I had in all other parts, it was alive... and people who
lived there could not dream of leaving it..
Travel teaches you a lot about yourselves, and there is more
to learn from bad experiences than the good ones.. I always say.. good times
may make you re-inforce what you like but the bad experiences teach you what
you don't like and are not ok with. I wasn't OK with someone... talking down
about my country and assuming they were superior beings because of a geographic
difference. I wasn't ok with a city like LA.
Very well written Smriti. I am delighted to know that you have started writing about your travel. Way to go. All the best.
ReplyDeleteThanks a ton Apoorv... :)
DeleteDo share this if you can.. :)
Excellent . I could read and imagine :) also its so funny . Waiting foe more :)
ReplyDeletei adore u baby girl... ADORE you!
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