It was Christmas! My Christmas Morning in Sri Lanka and I
had decided to treat myself to a day in the wild. My cab driver was to come and
pick me up at 5 am so I had decided to stay up all night with the girls, pub
hopping. So Belinda, Eva, Inma and I partied the night away.
My cabbie was a man named Tissa, who was referred to me by
Deepak. Deepak and I used to study together in college and when I had updated
my status on FB asking for advice on Sri Lanka, he had connected me to this
very tech savvy driver. Tissa was contactable on mail and helpful and resourceful
enough to not only help me plan my trip but also get me the required discounts
and get me through long queues.
Tissa arrived on-time and soon we were on our way. It was
supposed to be a 3 hour long drive to Yala National Park. I slept almost
instantly in the back seat. When I woke up it was past 10 am and we were still
en-route. Tissa updated me that since it had been raining cats and dogs and
dragons we were wayyy behind schedule. But he had planned and co-ordinated with
the safari guy at the Park to manage accordingly. We reached Yala at about 11
and after a quick coffee and sandwich we were ready to go explore the WILD!
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| Yala National Park |
Yala is known for Leopards and boy was I excited. But nature
had completely different plans laid out for me. In my travels; I ensure I hit
every and any preserves or zoos I can. I had been very lucky with spottings of
the wild beasts everywhere and ofcourse was hoping for the same. I had imagined
and hoped I'd get to see a leopard on a tree branch like they show on Discovery.
My ranger arrived soon and the great news was that I was the
only passenger in his truck! Anyone who has been on a safari would understand...
this is the best thing to happen! This meant I could ask him to stop anywhere
for as long as I'd like without feeling guilty for the rest of the passengers.
I was elated! It looked like a promising day. In my previous travels, I had
seen almost all the wild cats except leopards and just couldn't wait. However,
in all my excitement I was oblivious to the fact that it had been raining...
Raining! Raining since morning!!
We drove around for hours, with zero visibility and incessant
rain and windows rolled up and wet and cold and a driving path with only muddy
waters and slush. Hours! Wasted! My ranger did show me pigs... and I said I'm
from India dude. Then he showed me some buffaloes and I again said I'm from
India dude. Same for a drenched peacock. I think I was so bored that I recall
being excited about seeing one.. just one... only one elephant! But soon again;
looked at my still determined ranger and said.. I'm from India dude!
I was cold, I was wet, I was hungry by the time we got back
to the base. I promptly jumped into Tissa's car and requested to take me to a
small shack for some freshly prepared hot and spicy food! It's a very Indian
thing to eat something hot and spicy and unhealthy when it rains. I had to feel
satiated somehow!
Tissa took me to just the place! A small shabby family run
shack! I requested for the best local meal. The food and service that followed...
was overwhelming to say the least! I had the grandfather, father and a couple
of aunts I believe stand in attention; watching everything I was doing and aching
for my approving reactions. The simple fish-curry-rice request came with
over nine options. I looked at them awkwardly while I ensured I was trying to
make them feel as special too. But what a heart warming experience for a cold
cold day!
Everyone at home had had an equally dull day being in house
arrest due to rains. Belinda, Jose, Sergio, Inma, Eva and I went for dinner
gloomily and ate at an Italian restaurant with decent food but grumpy owner!
Christmas was over and Jose, Sergio and my darling and
affectionate Inma were leaving the next day.
The next day. The 26th of December. I was in Hikkaduwa on
the 10th anniversary of the Tsunami. There is a local tradition in Hikkaduwa;
where the surfers would swim deep into the sea and form a circle to offer
prayers to all the departed.
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| The Surfer's offering prayers in Hikkaduwa for Tsunami victims |
All of us got up got ready and headed for the beach at sharp
9 am. There was complete silence on the beach. A sea of people; mostly expats;
just staring at the sea. Silently. Some of them in tears, some of them lost in
thought, leaning over someone and some just sitting still on the beach. It was
amazing how the same beach where all of us had partied all night the previous
night could look so different today. We all stood still too.. I held on to
Belinda's hand. Not a sound except the gushing of the unforgiving waves.
None of us knew a word like Tsunami till that day 10 years
ago. And after having seen the photo museum and hear the stories and yet be facing
the same waters; I think I felt myself change. The people we lost to the
Tsunami, were not my friends; they were not my family; but I cared. And I was
mourning them. One of my traveller friend had once explained that it is one
thing to know a place by reading about it or surfing the net about it. You can
only make one of your senses enjoy that place. But when you are there... when
you travel.. you allow all your senses to indulge in that space and experience
it by the sounds, the smells, the tastes, the touch. But here I stood with my
heart and mind drowned in sorrow like never before. I had seen the news when it
happened and ofcourse felt bad, but this was different. I felt different.
I saw some people crying while I tried to fight my own tears
and strangers would come and hold them for a bit. Not a word exchanged. No
stories asked. Just support and being there and hugging them close. This was
the most unreal thing.. experience.. emotion I had ever felt! Unity in tragedy
by just being human! No money, no words, no plans could or would have comforted
like just a hug! While I sit and write about that day; today; I wish we all hug
more! Hugs are therapeutic to the wounded souls! And there is no better feeling
to be hugged purely!
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| Saying bye to my Spanish friends |
We bid an emotional bye to Jose, Sergio and Inma. And
Belinda then dropped me off to the beach where I could snorkel and swim with
the turtles. A good way to get over the heaviness in my head and heart. I
rented the gear and dashed into the cool waters. The reef was instantly
bursting with colors and life. Now I have a fear! I can swim and snorkel easily
but ummm.. only as long as I know how deep the waters are. And oh as long as no
water enters my mouth. Ya.. ya.. judge me all you want.. I have some hang ups
man!! So after I had seen some spectacular fish and no turtles, I realised I'd
have to go deeper. So I went back to the guy I rented the equipment from and
asked him to swim with me just for support if I got uneasy.
So here's what happened... we went in deep and began to see
the turtles.. oh what a feeling it was to be so close to these magnificent and
only cute reptiles. I was holding the arm of my equipment guy till he then
suggested and requested if he could hold me around the back instead cause I was
restricting his swim. Sounded reasonable so I sheepishly agreed.. ummm.. only
to realise that moments later while I experienced complete excitement to almost
touching the turtles; our man here had decided to support and manoeuvre me by gripping my ass!! I shrugged him off immediately assuming it was a slip and continued
giving my complete attention to the turtles. Shortly our man tried it again. So
here I was in the midst of multiple extreme emotions. Seeing and swimming with
turtles, in unknown depths of an ocean that had a history of being violent,
controlling and hearing my breathing through the snorkel mask while I'm scared
and a man trying to make the best of this vulnerable condition!! Men! Stupid
stupid beach boys! I first asked him to take me back to shallow waters cause I
could not have screamed or hit him being in the ocean so deep. Gave him a
mouthful moment I had my feet on the ground and mask off. And that's all I
could do!
Seriously! I don't know what some men are thinking.. or
rather why they are not thinking 90% of their time!!
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| Me with Joy and Belinda |
Walked off the beach without a shower. Belinda was picking
me up to take me for a boxing day lunch tradition she had with a lady called
Joy. We picked a bottle of wine and en-route Belinda told me that it was Joy
who had initially looped her into the Tsunami Relief program years ago. That
Joy was in fact her version of Mother Teresa.
Joy's home was bright and warm and simple. And Joy herself;
oh my god! So warm. So loving. So giving. It was so easy to see the purity in
her soul. She sat with me asking about me and said things to me that I will
remember forever. It was like she could see my soul as easily as I saw hers.
Many people came for the lunch and the food was beautiful. Some travel stories
exchanged and Belinda and I headed back to the beach for another swim.
Once we got there and started talking that we forgot about
the waters and spoke for hours. We spoke about every facet of our lives and
even though we had just met and she was merely my airbnb host, we had become
friends. And spoke like long lost girlfriends who had met after years. We both
got dressed later in the evening and went clubbing to celebrate my last night
in Hikkaduwa.
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| The gorgeous beaches of Hikkaduwa, Galle, Sri Lanka |
I had a flight back the next night and had asked Tissa to
plan my day and take me around Kandy area. And Boy; is he a planner!? We drove
for a few hours and reached Pinnawala, Elephant Orphanage. You can get a 50%
off on tickets with your Indian Passport. Tissa did his magic and helped me
avoid the long queue. And soon I was inside the elephant haven. The whole
family standing together and being friendly to all visitors. You can feed the
baby elephants with milk too if you will.
But, while I went close to the baby elephant and the care
takers offered to click my pictures; I think I stood next to the naughtiest of
em all! The baby started with playing with my stole, and that was cute and I
was thinking this will make a great picture. Then.. he started nudging on my
shorts.. and I pretended to be playful and try push him away... but soon he had
gotten a complete grip of my shorts in his trunk and was pulling hard. You read
me? He was pulling hard with his trunk on my shorts.. embarrassment came wayyyy
later. And while I struggled with thoughts of being killed my a baby elephant
and hollering for help, the crowd and the helpers stood laughing and taking
pictures and making videos. Yes, it sounds and may have seemed funny for
everyone, but you ask me?? It wasn't funny being the object of desire to an
elephant I promise you!
The place has free tours of how elephant dung is converted
to paper which you could check out. Next stop was a tea factory where they show
you the processing of tea leaves to various types of teas. One can and must
purchase the exquisite teas from these factories.
Sri Lanka is also known for its spices so we made a quick
stop at a Spice Garden where they take you on a tour to educate you on various
plants and some of the stuff is pretty incredible. They also have absolutely
natural oils and potions for various ailments.
My last stop was going to be at Kandy, at the Temple of the
Tooth. It holds a tooth of Gautam Buddha. The temple is spread out and has a
glorious ceremony in the evenings and the walls are full of paintings depicting
the entire history of the tooth and the temple. The temple is very important
politically and historically and is amazingly peaceful inspite of the large number
of visitors. And unlike Colombo, this temple was full of monks ready to help
and guide.
Sri Lanka had been full of surprises for me. I made friends
I'll cherish forever, I saw people working for improving a place even though
this wasn't their own country, I met people who inspired me, I partied hard,
touched nature, swam with the turtles, cried for people I never knew and came
home with memories of a lifetime!
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| One stranger less.. Thank you Airbnb! |
