Sri Lanka- No Strangers Here! Part 2

It was Christmas! My Christmas Morning in Sri Lanka and I had decided to treat myself to a day in the wild. My cab driver was to come and pick me up at 5 am so I had decided to stay up all night with the girls, pub hopping. So Belinda, Eva, Inma and I partied the night away.

My cabbie was a man named Tissa, who was referred to me by Deepak. Deepak and I used to study together in college and when I had updated my status on FB asking for advice on Sri Lanka, he had connected me to this very tech savvy driver. Tissa was contactable on mail and helpful and resourceful enough to not only help me plan my trip but also get me the required discounts and get me through long queues.

Tissa arrived on-time and soon we were on our way. It was supposed to be a 3 hour long drive to Yala National Park. I slept almost instantly in the back seat. When I woke up it was past 10 am and we were still en-route. Tissa updated me that since it had been raining cats and dogs and dragons we were wayyy behind schedule. But he had planned and co-ordinated with the safari guy at the Park to manage accordingly. We reached Yala at about 11 and after a quick coffee and sandwich we were ready to go explore the WILD!

Yala National Park

Yala is known for Leopards and boy was I excited. But nature had completely different plans laid out for me. In my travels; I ensure I hit every and any preserves or zoos I can. I had been very lucky with spottings of the wild beasts everywhere and ofcourse was hoping for the same. I had imagined and hoped I'd get to see a leopard on a tree branch like they show on Discovery.

My ranger arrived soon and the great news was that I was the only passenger in his truck! Anyone who has been on a safari would understand... this is the best thing to happen! This meant I could ask him to stop anywhere for as long as I'd like without feeling guilty for the rest of the passengers. I was elated! It looked like a promising day. In my previous travels, I had seen almost all the wild cats except leopards and just couldn't wait. However, in all my excitement I was oblivious to the fact that it had been raining... Raining! Raining since morning!!

We drove around for hours, with zero visibility and incessant rain and windows rolled up and wet and cold and a driving path with only muddy waters and slush. Hours! Wasted! My ranger did show me pigs... and I said I'm from India dude. Then he showed me some buffaloes and I again said I'm from India dude. Same for a drenched peacock. I think I was so bored that I recall being excited about seeing one.. just one... only one elephant! But soon again; looked at my still determined ranger and said.. I'm from India dude!

I was cold, I was wet, I was hungry by the time we got back to the base. I promptly jumped into Tissa's car and requested to take me to a small shack for some freshly prepared hot and spicy food! It's a very Indian thing to eat something hot and spicy and unhealthy when it rains. I had to feel satiated somehow!

Tissa took me to just the place! A small shabby family run shack! I requested for the best local meal. The food and service that followed... was overwhelming to say the least! I had the grandfather, father and a couple of aunts I believe stand in attention; watching everything I was doing and aching  for my approving reactions.  The simple fish-curry-rice request came with over nine options. I looked at them awkwardly while I ensured I was trying to make them feel as special too. But what a heart warming experience for a cold cold day!

Everyone at home had had an equally dull day being in house arrest due to rains. Belinda, Jose, Sergio, Inma, Eva and I went for dinner gloomily and ate at an Italian restaurant with decent food but grumpy owner!

Christmas was over and Jose, Sergio and my darling and affectionate Inma were leaving the next day.

The next day. The 26th of December. I was in Hikkaduwa on the 10th anniversary of the Tsunami. There is a local tradition in Hikkaduwa; where the surfers would swim deep into the sea and form a circle to offer prayers to all the departed.

The Surfer's offering prayers in Hikkaduwa for Tsunami victims

All of us got up got ready and headed for the beach at sharp 9 am. There was complete silence on the beach. A sea of people; mostly expats; just staring at the sea. Silently. Some of them in tears, some of them lost in thought, leaning over someone and some just sitting still on the beach. It was amazing how the same beach where all of us had partied all night the previous night could look so different today. We all stood still too.. I held on to Belinda's hand. Not a sound except the gushing of the unforgiving waves.

None of us knew a word like Tsunami till that day 10 years ago. And after having seen the photo museum and hear the stories and yet be facing the same waters; I think I felt myself change. The people we lost to the Tsunami, were not my friends; they were not my family; but I cared. And I was mourning them. One of my traveller friend had once explained that it is one thing to know a place by reading about it or surfing the net about it. You can only make one of your senses enjoy that place. But when you are there... when you travel.. you allow all your senses to indulge in that space and experience it by the sounds, the smells, the tastes, the touch. But here I stood with my heart and mind drowned in sorrow like never before. I had seen the news when it happened and ofcourse felt bad, but this was different. I felt different.

I saw some people crying while I tried to fight my own tears and strangers would come and hold them for a bit. Not a word exchanged. No stories asked. Just support and being there and hugging them close. This was the most unreal thing.. experience.. emotion I had ever felt! Unity in tragedy by just being human! No money, no words, no plans could or would have comforted like just a hug! While I sit and write about that day; today; I wish we all hug more! Hugs are therapeutic to the wounded souls! And there is no better feeling to be hugged purely!

Saying bye to my Spanish friends

We bid an emotional bye to Jose, Sergio and Inma. And Belinda then dropped me off to the beach where I could snorkel and swim with the turtles. A good way to get over the heaviness in my head and heart. I rented the gear and dashed into the cool waters. The reef was instantly bursting with colors and life. Now I have a fear! I can swim and snorkel easily but ummm.. only as long as I know how deep the waters are. And oh as long as no water enters my mouth. Ya.. ya.. judge me all you want.. I have some hang ups man!! So after I had seen some spectacular fish and no turtles, I realised I'd have to go deeper. So I went back to the guy I rented the equipment from and asked him to swim with me just for support if I got uneasy.

So here's what happened... we went in deep and began to see the turtles.. oh what a feeling it was to be so close to these magnificent and only cute reptiles. I was holding the arm of my equipment guy till he then suggested and requested if he could hold me around the back instead cause I was restricting his swim. Sounded reasonable so I sheepishly agreed.. ummm.. only to realise that moments later while I experienced complete excitement to almost touching the turtles; our man here had decided to support and manoeuvre me by gripping my ass!! I shrugged him off immediately assuming it was a slip and continued giving my complete attention to the turtles. Shortly our man tried it again. So here I was in the midst of multiple extreme emotions. Seeing and swimming with turtles, in unknown depths of an ocean that had a history of being violent, controlling and hearing my breathing through the snorkel mask while I'm scared and a man trying to make the best of this vulnerable condition!! Men! Stupid stupid beach boys! I first asked him to take me back to shallow waters cause I could not have screamed or hit him being in the ocean so deep. Gave him a mouthful moment I had my feet on the ground and mask off. And that's all I could do!

Seriously! I don't know what some men are thinking.. or rather why they are not thinking 90% of their time!!

Me with Joy and Belinda

Walked off the beach without a shower. Belinda was picking me up to take me for a boxing day lunch tradition she had with a lady called Joy. We picked a bottle of wine and en-route Belinda told me that it was Joy who had initially looped her into the Tsunami Relief program years ago. That Joy was in fact her version of Mother Teresa.

Joy's home was bright and warm and simple. And Joy herself; oh my god! So warm. So loving. So giving. It was so easy to see the purity in her soul. She sat with me asking about me and said things to me that I will remember forever. It was like she could see my soul as easily as I saw hers. Many people came for the lunch and the food was beautiful. Some travel stories exchanged and Belinda and I headed back to the beach for another swim.

Once we got there and started talking that we forgot about the waters and spoke for hours. We spoke about every facet of our lives and even though we had just met and she was merely my airbnb host, we had become friends. And spoke like long lost girlfriends who had met after years. We both got dressed later in the evening and went clubbing to celebrate my last night in Hikkaduwa.

The gorgeous beaches of Hikkaduwa, Galle, Sri Lanka

I had a flight back the next night and had asked Tissa to plan my day and take me around Kandy area. And Boy; is he a planner!? We drove for a few hours and reached Pinnawala, Elephant Orphanage. You can get a 50% off on tickets with your Indian Passport. Tissa did his magic and helped me avoid the long queue. And soon I was inside the elephant haven. The whole family standing together and being friendly to all visitors. You can feed the baby elephants with milk too if you will.

But, while I went close to the baby elephant and the care takers offered to click my pictures; I think I stood next to the naughtiest of em all! The baby started with playing with my stole, and that was cute and I was thinking this will make a great picture. Then.. he started nudging on my shorts.. and I pretended to be playful and try push him away... but soon he had gotten a complete grip of my shorts in his trunk and was pulling hard. You read me? He was pulling hard with his trunk on my shorts.. embarrassment came wayyyy later. And while I struggled with thoughts of being killed my a baby elephant and hollering for help, the crowd and the helpers stood laughing and taking pictures and making videos. Yes, it sounds and may have seemed funny for everyone, but you ask me?? It wasn't funny being the object of desire to an elephant I promise you!

The place has free tours of how elephant dung is converted to paper which you could check out. Next stop was a tea factory where they show you the processing of tea leaves to various types of teas. One can and must purchase the exquisite teas from these factories.

Sri Lanka is also known for its spices so we made a quick stop at a Spice Garden where they take you on a tour to educate you on various plants and some of the stuff is pretty incredible. They also have absolutely natural oils and potions for various ailments.

My last stop was going to be at Kandy, at the Temple of the Tooth. It holds a tooth of Gautam Buddha. The temple is spread out and has a glorious ceremony in the evenings and the walls are full of paintings depicting the entire history of the tooth and the temple. The temple is very important politically and historically and is amazingly peaceful inspite of the large number of visitors. And unlike Colombo, this temple was full of monks ready to help and guide.

Sri Lanka had been full of surprises for me. I made friends I'll cherish forever, I saw people working for improving a place even though this wasn't their own country, I met people who inspired me, I partied hard, touched nature, swam with the turtles, cried for people I never knew and came home with memories of a lifetime!

One stranger less.. Thank you Airbnb!

Sri Lanka- No Strangers Here! Part 1

Sri Lanka.. The most unplanned of all my travels. I decided to travel to Sri Lanka over a traveller's meet at the Hauz Khas Village by Airbnb. A couple had mentioned it, described it and within days, without any research what so ever I had booked it. Did not even bother checking areas or distances or currency.. I was told I will love a place called Galle and I looked up for a place to stay near Galle on Airbnb and booked it. Simple!

There is something about travel.. which makes all of us a little more positive and expressive and so willing to share and help. Like an old college friend reached out to me after 14 years to give me the number of a reliable cab driver in Sri Lanka so my solo travel would be safe; along with a list of to-dos and to-avoids. I wish I had trusted him blindly!

Airbnb Colombo home

I reached Colombo pretty late in the night and my wonderfully helpful landlord for my only night in Colombo; Dijen had already organised a cab to pick me up and bring me to him house. The drive was nice and lead me to a beautiful, very colonial style house. A very big house with large door like windows all over. The beds were comfy and I think I slept right away from the fatigue and excitement.

The next morning, the moment I opened my door, I knew Christmas was around the corner with my senses being overwhelmed with the sweet smells of fresh bakes and cakes. Dijen's wife was a brilliant baker with a home based business and was stocking up for the Christmas orders. The breakfast was the best I've ever had in my Airbnb stays. At the breakfast table was an adorable couple from Russia and another German couple. Alexander and Tatiana from Russia were going to be taking a car on hire and driving all over, and the only thing we were hoping for was that it would stop raining.

Gangaramaya Temple

Dijen organised a tuktuk for me to take a quick tour of the city along with getting me a local sim card and currency too. But like I said, I wish I had blindly trusted my college friend Deepak and skipped Colombo totally. The Gangaramaya Temple was my first stop and lacked any and all instructions and you are also forced to pay donation for keeping your shoes without any prior intimation. There is nothing written in English anywhere so there is no way you can know any history or why what is placed where. I was even yelled at by a local man for taking a picture while there were no signs of 'pictures not allowed'. The Buddhas everywhere were a beautiful sight inspite of the rains but I had no clue what I was looking at. And then there was a room filled with glass cupboards and many things inside them kept shabbily... even a shelf full of watches.. and sunglasses. Again.. dirty, dusty and unexplained. The temple by the lake was a bit more serene but full of people sleeping all over the floors. And the last stop at the Beira Lake was even more dreadful, with lovers making the best of the rain and umbrellas all over the benches and canopy. Oblivious to the monitors who lurched all over the lazy, wet grass. I walked with my eyes digging the walking path around the little island as lovers made sudden movements of adjustments.. haha!

The love zone of Beira Lake!

I had thought I'd leave by 7 in the evening to reach my next stop at Galle but was on my way already by 3:30! Belinda, my host in Hikkaduwa, Galle had kept constantly in touch with me and before I even met her or saw her home I had the warmest feeling of being welcomed and like she was waiting for me. And she waited and waited and kept calling to check on me as my one and a half hour journey became over four hours long due to the rains. She had some friends who had also been waiting for my arrival from Spain. Finally she suggested I get off at the bus-stop and her tuktuk guy Kumara would be waiting for me and would bring me to the bar they were heading for and then would safely drop my baggage at her place. Now under normal circumstances I would have been sceptical, but Belinda's voice was so warm and worried that without a thought I had agreed to the entire plan; not caring about me or my baggage's safety after the disappointing day at Colombo and the laboriously long journey in the bus. What a good decision!

My new Spanish friends and family!

Belinda is a gorgeous, confident red head with a smile that could light up the skies. She waiting for me outside the restaurant in the slight drizzle and came across the road to welcome me and without any hesitation we were already holding hands as she protectively made me cross the road. It was like we were never strangers! At the bar I met all her Spanish friends and within 15 minutes flat we all felt we were meant to be sitting at that table together.. like it was the plan all along. The bar had a karaoke night and the beach was right next to it. The sea was calm, the weather was damp, the music was full of energy and our group of 7 was connected! Within moments Belinda and I had taken to the stage and were hollering the songs we sang with all our emotions poured in...

Post our night of fun and my new friends Jose, Sergio and Inma saving me from drunk Sri Lankans and an extreeemely friendly Russian woman, we all got on scooters and made our way home. I held on to Belinda for dear life cause I was on a two wheeler after many many years. We crossed a railway line and then entered a forest feel place.. and shortly reached the Dragon Fly house. My room was the first room with red walls and a simple four poster bed with a white net on it and my bath area was in the open. Yes!! My shower and facilities were under the open skies and on pebbles. Five of us; Jose, Inma, Sergio, Belinda and I sat up for a while around the dining. Jose, Inma and Sergio are best friends and were travelling together through all of Sri Lanka. While in Hikkaduwa; Jose and Inma were helping a friend, Eva with the construction of her house and Sergio was taking a diving course. Too tired to think or talk I crashed in moments after being guided by Belinda to cover Hikkaduwa and Galle the next day and she promptly organised for Kumara, the tuktuk guy to take me around.

Tsunami Monument Site, Hikkaduwa

It was the 24th of December; Kumara and I were on our way by 10, it was not raining thankfully. We started with the sand Buddha, a Tsunami Memorial site. It was located facing the sea in the middle of a lotus pond. I soaked in the calm while Kumara started telling me about the devastation the Tsunami had brought to Sri Lanka and Hikkaduwa in specific. I recall just sitting at the back of the tuktuk with my hand on my mouth in complete disbelief. We paused at another Monument site where they had made a brass painting of sorts on what the Tsunami had done and how people had hung on to trees; dead or alive; thousands died inside a train... oh the tragedy of it had my heart sinking already. But the last stop broke me; it was the Tsunami Photo Museum.

Tsunami Photo Museum, Hikkaduwa

A shabby shack with hand-written charts wrapped in plastic giving details, prayers, numbers... stats... stories... events... blow by blow description. Hundreds of photos from all over the world donated by so many people. Ohhhh the story each picture told... thousands of lives destroyed by death and devastation... by nature's fury. None of us had even known a term or word like Tsunami before that day.. 10 years ago... Children being the worst hit cause they could not outrun the waves. They never stood a chance! I stood still in front of all those walls with pictures... and photos and news articles... I stood still and stared... for hours.. and even though I didn't know any of them... my eyes had welled up. I sat down on the floor for a moment with my head in my hands with the room full of photos spinning in my mind and the pain I was surrounded in. Yes there was hope that so many had come to this country as volunteers and tried to rehabilitate this beautiful and peace-loving place. Belinda was one of them. She had been invited by Joy; a social worker in 2006 and now both of them were living here ever since.

Tsunami Surfer's Remembrance, Hikkaduwa 

My heart was too heavy as I hugged the woman who ran the place and also had lost someone to the Tsunami. I just could not ask her who it was and what her story was. I requested Kumara to just stop somewhere by the beach so I could collect myself. I just stood there watching hundreds of tourist and people by the beach and then I stared at the sea... the sea they had come to enjoy... It must have been a day like this 10 years ago I thought. As I kept sulking, Kumara came to join me and said... I know just the place for you... I quietly walked behind him and sat in the tuktuk.

And he was right.. he took me to the best place.. the Turtle Hatchery... Perfect way to forget about Nature's fury is to start seeing Nature's beauty. As the owner started showing me the whole process of how they rescue the soft shelled eggs of turtles and then take care of them. They allow you to touch them and send as much time with them as you'd like. They have turtle of all ages; from a few weeks old to the few years old. The special part is that they have a rescue zone for the handicapped turtles too. The cutest reptiles ever... as I interacted with them and tickled them over their shells and let them rest on my out-stretched arms...  I kept smiling for hours. This is definitely a must do in Sri Lanka!

Turtle Hatcheries, Hikkaduwa

We decided to head to Galle from there to check out the Galle Lighthouse and Fort. Umm... Honestly.. the structure was just nice.. nothing out of the ordinary but the view was amazing and for me personally; it was the quaint food and shopping areas all around it that made this place unique. I walked around idly and ate and shopped for souvenirs.

It was Christmas Eve and Belinda being the fabulous woman she is; had been kind enough to invite and include me in her friends and family group for a proper sit down Christmas Dinner with crackers and everything. We all got home by 7 in the evening as Sergio made Mojitos for us at home and we girls got into pretty clothes to celebrate. We headed to the Crab Restaurant and were joined by Dave, a Welsh man married to a gorgeous Spanish lady and they live in Dubai, Aaron was from Australia with Anna from Switzerland, and then there was Eva, absolutely hot looking woman who is  also a ranger in Africa for a few months every year. It was a very International table of friends who were away from family and yet sitting cosy on a rainy night at a dinner table to celebrate Christmas. As we cheered we all made our prayers in our own languages and as the wine kept pouring we heard everything from Spanish chorals to songs on flamingo dancing and then came the naughty songs which were all translated for me and Aaron.

My Christmas Family in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

The next day I had planned for my Christmas to be spent at Yala National Park with leopards and elephants, and for that I had to leave Hikkaduwa at 5 am. Hence I decided not to drink and stay up all night. And my god we the women DID! Post the dinner Belinda, Eva, Inma and I went crazy party hopping and danced the night away... Saw an old man who trips on trance in his lungi, saw a couple of men dressed with Christmas tree decorations all around their heads.

Girl Fun at Christmas in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

One caution to be taken for all women travellers here is.. Umm the Sri Lankan men can be trouble and can get touchy, its best you stay safe and a bit distant.

More in part 2.....